I really love this poem and here is how i applied it to help me in the November BGSR Comp. The real title is unknown, so i have named it..
The perfect wave
The sea does not reward those who are too anxious, too greedy, or too important.
One should lie empty, open, choice-less as a beach,
waiting for a gift from the sea.
-Ann Morrow Lindbergh
Longboard Division – As we paddled out to compete, I didn’t rate myself at all next to Claire and Brenda, and resigned to myself that i would be happy with a third place. I caught my first wave, feeling relaxed and calm, no pressure. I felt my confidence awaken and followed up with a few nice one’s. Happy with that, i sat and waited for a really nice set wave. The conditions were pretty ordinary and there was little to choose from. The above poem came to mind. I felt myself becoming immersed in the words, as if i had become the poem, empty, open and choice-less, waiting for the sea to gift me, with the perfect wave. I felt like a child that knew if she asked the ocean for a wave, nicely, of course, the ocean would be sure to oblige. I know it sounds crazy, we are talking about Bondi Beach on a busy Saturday now, but here it came, my last wave, a lovely fat gift from the sea, and only for me!! It may not have been the best wave, but i relaxed into it and really enjoyed it. Thinking about it now, in that moment, the ocean taught me a lesson ,about letting go of expectations of the mind and just being happy and grateful in the moment.
Congratulations to the Longboard girls – Claire (1st), Me (2nd) and Brenda (3rd)
Kimmy Mac
